Buttoned garment and button therefor



April 24, 1951 E. M. STANCOMBE 2,550,309

BUTTONED GARMENT AND BUTTQN THEREFOR Filed Jan. 8, 1949 3maentor lue s tancomloe (Ittomeg i a tented Apr. 24, 1951 BUTTONED GARMENT AND BUTTON THEREFOR Ellie M. Stancombe, Leominster, Mass.

Application January 8, 1949, Serial No. 69,879

1 Claim. (01. 2, 24s) This invention relates to buttoned garments and the buttons therefor, and moreparticularly to garments having buttoned portions provided with opposed buttonholes within which a button is removably secured. j The standard type of collar button has been used to fasten together relatively stiff portions of a garment, such as a shirt collar, but the but ton has had to be so shaped that it could be readily inserted into the two buttonholes and so involves the disadvantage of accidentally pulling out of position at times. The compromise shape has served its purpose for buttoning starched or stifi collars, but such buttons have not been serviceable for use with the light weight or flimsy cloth used for womens garments, nor have they been usable on childrens garments where heavy duty wear andtear is involved. In accordance with my invention, I have pro vided a. button for insertion into two opposed buttonholesof a arment and wherein the but-.- tonholes and the button are so constructed that the button may be readily assembled and removed from the associated buttonholes. The button comprises-two spaced connected plates which are so constructed that the'un'der plate may be removably mounted in its associated buttonhole and the outer plate may be buttoned in accordance with standard procedure. 1 A primary object of this invention is to provide a button of this general type which is so constructed that it may be readily mounted'in and removed from one of the garment portions but cannot be accidentally displaced even if the .cloth is soft and thin and may be easily distorted in shape.

A further object is to provide a garment having opposed buttonholes in which the length of one ,of the buttonholes is materially shorter than the width of the associated plate of the button, so that the latter cannot be accidentally removed em the garment portion, but which is so con.- structed that the button may be purposefully inserted into position and removed from the smaller buttonhole. A further object is to provide a garment having opposed buttonholes in the two garment por- --jtions and a double headed button which is so constructed that it may be readily mounted in the buttonhole of the under portion of the garment but cannot be removed therefrom except by studied effort, so that the button remains in position and is available for buttoning the outer portion of the garment in a normal manner, but wherein the button is so constructed that it will give a long life of useful service and will not I normally tear the garment in which it'is positioned but may be readily removed for laundering of the garment or other desired operations.

Further objects will be apparent in the following disclosure. r e

In accordance with my invention, the two overlapping portions of a garment are provided on button, and it is so secured in the under buttonhole that it cannot be removed except by a conscious effort. To this end, the buttonhole of the associated garment portion is made materially smaller in length than the diameter or the narrowest width of the under plate, so that this button plate cannot be accidentally pulled through the buttonhole. To permit assembly and removal of the button, this under plate is provided with a slot of such dimensions that the cloth of the buttonhole edge may be threaded into the slot and the plate rotated in such a manner as to draw the button through the buttonhole, but wherein the slot shape prevents accidental removal.

Referring to the drawings illustrating one embodiment of the invention:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the button with the bottom portion up;

Fig. 2 is a slide elevation of the button;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan View of the button;

Fig. 5 is a composite view showing a vertical section of the button associated with the buttonholes of two garment portions;

Fig. 6 is a vertical elevation of the button showing how the cloth at the buttonhole is passed into the button slot;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of a piece of cloth with the bottom button plate partly inserted into the buttonhole, so that rotation of the button in the direction of the arrow will cause assembly there'- of; and

Fig. 8 is a plan View of the cloth with the button in the buttonhole but having an edge of the buttonhole caught into the slot, so that rota- "tion of the button in the direction of the arrow will remove the button from the cloth.

The double headed button illustrated in the drawings comprises two plates or heads 19 and I2 molding operation. The plates l and i2 may be of suitable shapes, such as circular or rectangular disks, and with raised, fiat or ornamented surfaces depending on the artistic requirements. The shortest width of each plate, herein termed the diameter, controls the required length of the associated buttonhole into which that plate may be buttoned. These two plates Ill and i2 may have the same diameter, but the under plate It! is preferably smaller than the upper plate l2, so that it is fully concealed. Fig. 5 illustrates the relationship of such a button to two pieces of cloth l5 and it which are to be buttoned together. The upper buttonhole I? has its length approximately equal to the diameter of the head [2, although it may be slightly shorter if the cloth will stretch. This provides for buttoning the upper garment portion over the head I2 by insertion of that head through the buttonhole IT.

A primary feature of this invention involves making the buttonhole IS in the lower portion l 5 of a garment, such as the waist of a romper suit, much shorter than the narrowest width or diameter of the button head or plate Ill, so that the plate l0 cannot normally be inserted through the buttonhole; and the latter is, of course, smaller than the other plate l2. Consequently, after the button has been assembled in the cloth IE, it is substantially irremovable except by an intentional and conscious efiort, as will be explained. To provide for the removal of the button from the small buttonhole, a slot is formed in the associated head IE3. This slot may be variously shaped but is preferably provided with parallel walls which are so spaced as to provide for the passage of the total thickness of the cloth at the buttonhole into that slot, but that width of the slot is preferably not much more than enough to permit this assembly, so that the cloth cannot become accidentally caught into the slot and the button thus removed. The cloth may have a fold or plait at the buttonhole providing two or more cloth thicknesses, and the buttonhole edging or stitches of parallel projecting threads adds further thickness which must be accommodated by the width of the slot. The inner end 2i of the slot is preferably near the shank [4, as illustrated in the drawings, but it may extend to one side of that shank, if

desired. The distance between the inner end 2| of the slot to the point 22 on the periphery of the head, which is the farthest point from that end 21 (illustrated as diametrically opposed thereto relative to the shank), substantially equals or is slightly less than the length of the shorter buttonhole 18 in the garment portion 16, as shown paricularly in Fig. 5. This slot, therefore, permits inserting the head H3 through the buttonhole, provided the cloth at the buttonhole is threaded into the slot as illustrated in Figs. 6, '7 and 8.

In order to facilitate threading the cloth at the buttonhole into the slot, the walls of the slot are tilted or beveled, as shown in Fig. 2, so that they lie at an acute angle, such as 45, to the central axis or an axial plane of the cylindrical shank h. or the center line of any other shape of connecting part. This provides two beveled surfaces 22 and 24, which form with the button faces a wedge having its sharp edge 25 at the inner face 26 and a second wedge having its edge 2'! at the outer face 28 of the button.

When the button is to be assembled initially in the buttonhole N3 of the lower cloth portion, the button is so positioned that the wedge formed of the edge 2! and the adjacent surface 24 of the slot hooks or wedges into the buttonhole and locks with the cloth as illustrated in Figs. 6 and '7. Then, by rotating the button relative to the cloth through a full turn in the direction of the arrow of Fig. 7, the button plate I [i is threaded through the buttonhole. The reverse procedure of removing the button from the buttonhole requires turning the button in the opposite direction, and in that case the inside edge 25 will be the leading edge of the entering wedge and serve to thread the button backwards through the cloth. It will be appreciated that an ordinary pull on the button or the cloth will not permit the button to pass through that buttonhole because of the requirement that there be a conscious and intelligent effort to thread one of the leading point of the slot edges through the buttonhole and to rotate the button in order to feed the button plate gradually through the buttonhole by that efiort. This procedure requires that the distance from the inner portion 21 of the slot to the most remote part of the button plate It] be not materially greater than the length of the buttonhole, so that the latter may be stretched over the button plate as above described, although the button shape and the slot dimensions may be widely varied to this end. The outside plate l2 of the button should be larger than the inner buttonhole [8 so that the button cannot escape in that direction.

The button material is preferably a plastic of the general type employed for molding materials, such as styrene, vinyl acetate, nylon plastic, methacrylates and other molding materials. They are preferably formed from thermosplastic molding powders that are hot pressed in a mold in accordance with standard procedure and conditions. The materials should be strong and substantially rigid except for a slight elasticity that aids in preventing breakage under unusual stress. They should be insoluble in water and soap solutions and able to stand the ordinary treatment of a button. The buttons may be either transparem; or translucent or made of suitable opaque or colored materials. When made of plastic, they are Well adapted for raised ornamentation designs and pictures or color schemes. The shapes of the two disks may be widely varied within the requirements of securing the garment parts together. Also, the button may be made of soft metals that can be turned or die-molded, such as aluminum or brass. In that case, a bar of metal stock is preferably submitted to a lathe or milling operation which cuts away'the material between the two heads and forms the central shank.

It is preferred that the button be a single unitary body in which the two disks Ii] and I2 are substantially rigid members spaced apart by a fixed distance and held rigidly by a centrally located shank l4 integral therewith so that the button will not change its shape materially during use. The inner surfaces 26 and 30 of the head 12 and the bottom in are fiat and parallel. The shank I4 is preferably straight sided, uninterrupted and columnar, such as a cylinder, and perpendicular at the junction with each disk, but it may be square or other shape in cross section, and for some purposes it may b a flexible linkage, such as a chain or wire suitably secured to the opposed plates. The shank is made of such a length thatthe faces 26 and 30' of the two disks or plates of the button will fit rather snugly against the cloth, this distance being usually determined at least for stiff clothsby the combined thicknesses of the cloth and the button- 76 hole edgings where the button is located. Coarser cloths provide more friction and need not fit tightly. This provides a frictional grip on the under surfaces of the button by the adjacent cloth surfaces and so insures that the button will be held securely in position and will not turn or twist under the normal stresses of usage.

Owing to the shortness of the shank 14, it is substantially impossible for the button to twist in the under buttonhole to an unsightly or material extent; nor can it become unbuttoned accidentally, since it requires the use of force to distort the cloth enough to remove the button from the buttonhole. Therefore, a proper use of the button with the different garments provided with the opposed buttonholes requires a selection of the buttons so that the shank of each will be of that length which insures a reasonably tight fit of the button plates or disks against the cloth.

The diameters of the plates l0 and I2 should be large and provide an extensive frictional gripping surface around the shank M for engaging a substantial area of cloth. The upper buttonhole II has a length so related to the diameter of the associated button disk ii. that the button cannot readily pull out of position. That length is preferably substantially equal to the shortest diameter of the button plate to be inserted therethrough. When a button of one inch diameter is inserted in a buttonhole of one inch length, the shank I4 of the button distorts the cloth enough to pull in the length of the hole or shorten it. Thus, the button cannot fall out of position and can be removed only by forcibly distorting the cloth. It will, therefore, be understood that the shank is to have a thickness or diameter related to the size of the button plates and to the buttonhole length. This depends on the type of cloth used and requires some comprise. In general, the shank .is to be as thick as is consistent with its not distorting the cloth enough to prevent it from lying substantially flat beneath the inner parallel button surfaces 26 and 30. Yet, it may preferably distort the cloth enough to increase the frictional grip of the button plates on the cloth. The diameters of the button disks and the lengths of the buttonholes are related to the softness, flexibility, weave and thread count of the cloth, since it would require a larger button for a sweater, for example, than for a piece of stifi cotton goods. This type of button is especially adapted for the soft, non-starched goods, and in fact, it does not require starching the goods to hold the button in place.

Buttons made according to my invention are usually over about inch in diameter, and I prefer to use a button that is at least inch in diameter, although for very thin and fragile types of cloth, such as ladies garments that require small buttons, smaller sizes may be employed. Buttons are measured by a scale of 40 lines per linear inch, so that a 30 line button is 0.75 inch in diameter. A small button will usually be 24 lines. For a button which is suitable for fastening together medium weight cloth which is plaited and so provides four thicknesses of cloth at the buttonholes, I may use a button in which the larger disk has a 30 line measurement and the smaller disk 24 lines, the shank being 0.125 inch long. The disks or plates are usually made thin so as not to project too far above and particularly beneath the cloth. The under plate In is made as thin as is consistent with strength, but the head may be as desired for ornamentation. For example, the lower plate or disk may be about 0.06 inch thick if made of a molded plastic. This size of button is well adapted for cotton cloth of the type used for washable garments, such as house dresses, uniformsand childrens rompers. A smaller button adapted for the thinner clothes worn by adults may have a diameter of inch and the inner disk may be inch with a shank inch long and the total button thickness of 1; inch. The shank is preferably a cylinder that is not over inch in diameter for a 24 line button and about to /4 inch for a 30 line button. These shanks of small diameter provide ample gripping surface areas on the inner opposed faces 26 and 30. As shown in the drawings, the diameter of each disk is preferably at least three times the diameter of the shank so that the latter does not materially limit the friction area of the inner surfaces 26 and 30.

It is further to be noted that the upper head 12 is preferably larger in diameter than the lower plate l0. A slight difference in size aids in the buttoning operation, since the cloth may be turned back somewhat over the under plate and give clearance for slipping the upper cloth into place. Otherwise, the under plate interferes with pushing the top cloth into the groove between the plates. The under plate preferably has a diameter of at least two thirds that of the head.

I claim:

A garment having over-lapping inner and outer cloth portions provided respectively with opposed inner and outer button holes passing entirely therethrough, a button having an inner plate and an outer plate of greater diameter providing opposed inner parallel faces and a central shank connecting the plates integrally which has a length not materially greater than the combined thicknesses of said cloth portions at the button holes so that the cloth frictionally engages the inner plate faces, the length of the inner button hole being shorter than the length of the outer hole and materially less than any diameter of each plate so that neither plate may pass accidentally therethrough, the length of the outer button hole being substantially as long as the diameter of the associated outer plate so that the latter is normally buttonable through the hole, the inner plate being exposed inside of the associated inner garment portion for manual manipulation, the inner plate having spaced inclined walls forming an open ended narrow slot extending from the plate periphery to a point located at a distance from the most remote peripheral portion of the plate which is not materially greater than the length of the inner button hole, the width of the slot being as great as the thickness of the inner garment portion at the button hole, a slot wall having a pointed end and the parts being so arranged that the slotted plate may be interlocked with and rotatively passed through the inner button hole and thereby secure the button indefinitely against removal.

ELLIE M. STANCOMBE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS 

